November 25, 2008

WW (Wacky Whities) Strike Again

"You're White!"... glee!

I don't tend to go to bars much here, less often the bars attached to the main luxury hotels, the bars that attract and retain the largest possible foreigner/whitey population "out on the town in India" for a night. Though last night after encountering a number of locked doors of more desirable places and their annexed empty alleyways, we went to just such an establishment. There was a cover band fronted by a Bengali woman who despite the ban on public smoking seemed enshrouded in her own kind of sensual haze, playing Amerikan rock classics without even a shred of restraint or irony. There's a certain demographic here that has adopted Amerikan and British classic rock as their own anthem(s), believing in the power of these melodies and lyrics above anything else, and with an intention stronger than anyone I've ever seen before. Brows furrowed in concentration and zeal, eyes pulled tight in moody sacrosanct. More of a show, however, was the nebulous tourist doldrum that occupied much of the middle of the bar floor, made up of half fairly bored and confused faces, the others lost in the ecstasy of being a complete and utter mess. As soon as I got into the bar a girl dressed in last year's big summer fashions (when you're away from the west for too long, you do happen to lose touch after all) flailed her arms in almost frightening excitement and yelled "You're White!... where are you from?" the latter with much less enthusiasm and fervor than the former. This is true, I do happen to actually be exceptionally white. Though my only response was to point out that my friend Tahmid standing at my side whom they had not greeted with such pomp and celebration, while indeed being brown, was also from Amerika. As I sneaked away from this rather contrived and slightly stomach-tipping reception, Tahmid took over rather seamlessly within a few second of it beginning. Apparently all of this girl's tourist friends were leaving the next day, thus leaving her 'homeless', and so after all that she repeatedly asked Tahmid if she could stay with him. He avoided her for the rest of the evening.

On the other side of this tourist encampment was the real mess of the evening, a couple dudes embarrassingly trashed, breaking out into groin-focused dance every few minutes, occasionally falling into people or furniture, or simply grabbing a girl for a moment of dance, usually dropping her, or themselves, or everyone involved, onto the regrettably sticky floor below. The night continued on this queasy path: interesting comments and glances from all directions, punctuated by the slips, falls, or banshee-like yelps of the whiteys somewhere in the immediate distance. Germans looking for a little love on the road, men with ambiguous sexuality momentarily pushing their way into inconvenient spaces to posture before retreating back into the crowd in defeat. Photographers looking to get a picture of (us) whiteys, particularly due to the radiantly blond tresses of my companion. The overall theme of the evening however remained a negatively connoted "wacky whities", sticking in my mind like a sour aftertaste. No wonder we're treated by strangers initially as these horrible, soulless tourists, more likely to pay 200 rupees for a beer at an enclosed sanctum of a bar than to really actually try to understand anything about the place they actually are or even have a simple civil interaction. Because it doesn't matter - when the haze of the night before passes they'll probably pack up whatever knickknacks they've picked up from street vendors at inflated prices over the past few days, get on a train, go somewhere else, and buy a beer. And maybe dance.

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